Blog Posts, Articles & Stories tagged #Winter
There are 11 posts in Winter.
Istanbul is caked in white icing. It glitters in the early morning sun. Street dogs nuzzle empty plastic bags in the bus station where we arrive, bleary and sleep-deprived, after 12 hours shifting into ever-decreasingly comfortable positions on the night-bus from Marmaris. We make our way to Taksim Square as the city awakens and bustles [read it!]
Even as a Kurdish city, Diyarbakır is unique. Kurdish separatist movements have always been strong here and the Turkish police recently instated a curfew on the city in order to suppress a potential uprising – in response to closing the border to Kurdish-Syrian refugees.
We hitchhiked to the city after a long cold wait on the south bank of Lake Van, with Recep, an enthusiastic Kurdish historian, who grew up in Istanbul but is originally from Kars. [read it!]
“There is no work here,” he says. “At school, we learn only Turkish. No Kurdish.” It's a story we will hear over and over again on this journey, now we're in the part of Turkey unofficially known as Kurdistan. The Kurdish language was banned by the state until very recently. Town names were changed and Turkifised. Kurdish names were banned for children. It was illegal to speak Kurdish at school, or to print books in the language. It was a very successful campaign, most adults today either do not remember, or never learned the language.
“That bus is free”, Hrach tells me, pointing towards a rusting orange Soviet minibus. We’re waiting at the bus stop outside the Opera in Yerevan city centre, surrounded by our luggage. I’m armed with four zhingali, a bottle of tan (salted yoghurt drink) and some smoked cheese sticks for the journey. I look in the [read it!]
As the sun rises, so does a family living out of their 1978 Volkswagen Bus. [read it!]
The Upper Peninsula of this Great Lakes land of Michigan has proven so dual in nature, the homey feeling of bug open forests and blue expansive lakes mixed with cold cans of beer folk living simple and hard lives. I could see me growing up here and ending up a very similar person. A mama [read it!]
Leaving New England, and as we passed through what New York had left and exchanged $10 / pack cigarettes for the Pennsylvania Wilds, heading back to Pittsburgh via the PA Grand Canyon and all of it’s splendor, it certainly feels like we’re finishing one trip to embark on another. The next stretch, through Ohio and [read it!]
Tristan, on the road, was at his best in the Bus. Keep it moving and he was as happy as a clam tented up in the back with his Gameboy 4000 and the endless miles. Deputy, too, was at his best (and nearly only good) in the traveling confines of her belly. I (and my [read it!]
A week spent in the heatwave that is a muggy Central Pennsylvania June brought some renovations to the old Bus as we gear up for the second season of our outting-as-a-lifestyle we call living in our 1978 Riviera Campwagon Champaigne Edition VW Bus. After leaving our lovely coastal home of Manzanita, OR, where we wiled [read it!]